You, Too, Can Dine Like ‘Superstar' at Al Tiramisu;

Media Followed George Clooney Everywhere in DC—

Except for Dinner at Al Tiramisu

By Rozanne Weissman

George Clooney, Chef Luigi of Al Tiramisu, and Clooney's longtime friend and work partner Grant Heslov

Washington, DC, May 2012—Responding to increased customer interest in Al Tiramisu's updated celebrity photo wall and web gallery and intense media focus on celebrities at the White House Correspondents’ Association Dinner and pre-and post-parties, Chef-Owner Luigi Diotaiuti debuts a "Superstar Dinner" to mark the restaurant's 16th year in business.

For the first anniversary of Al Tiramisu, the most authentic Italian restaurant in the nation's capital, Chef Luigi created a popular "Big Night" feast from the Italian film by the same name, and long-term patrons have been urging the chef to create other special dinners.

"So," relates Chef Luigi, "I thought about customer questions, like: 'What did the Prime Minister of Italy eat?' 'What did various celebrities eat?' 'Can we have a similar dinner for special occasions?' and 'My girlfriend is such a fan of George Clooney. She would be so impressed if I proposed to her over a dinner he ate here.' "And, I realize everyone wants the opportunity to dine like a superstar," concludes the gregarious Italian chef who talks with his hands.

Actually, "Clooney-mania" was the impetus for increased customer questions which spurred the idea for the new dinner offering. Media went into overdrive with two spring visits to DC by handsome actor director George Clooney for the late April black-tie White House Correspondents' Association Dinner and multiple March commitments.

Paparazzi and media covered his every March move—testifying before Congress on a humanitarian crisis, dining next to First Lady Michelle Obama at the White House official dinner for British Prime Minister David Cameron, and getting handcuffed and arrested by the Secret Service for protesting at the Sudanese embassy. Covering his arrest, media even reported that notorious prankster Clooney identified himself as “Brad Pitt."

Clooney did give media the slip for dinner at Al Tiramisu, the cozy, joyful Dupont Circle establishment. Dinner for seven included his parents, journalist father Nick Clooney who got arrested with his son, mom Nina Clooney, and four others.

Having dined at Al Tiramisu about 20 times—three times with his parents—Clooney is ensured privacy from patrons though tables are close. He leaves the food and wine selection to chef/owner Luigi Diotaiuti who describes the superstar as "fun, energetic, and real." The two men share a sense of playfulness and charm. Chef Luigi's guiding philosophy for Al Tiramisu: "I want people to have great food AND a great time."

Proclaims Chef Luigi, "Now you, too, can dine like a Superstar at Al Tiramisu." That doesn't mean that you will have the exact same morsel-for-morsel meal as any single celebrity. It means that like them you put yourself in the talented hands of Chef Luigi to devise a menu for you based on the season and availability that day, including “insider” sig

In a very heated competition, first place in Thursday’s Sommelier Showdown went to Brent Kroll, Adour (left).

Eli Benchimol, Chef Geoff's (center) placed second, and Theo Rutherford, The Coterie came in a close third in a blind tasting to identify nine different wines.

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IT’S ALL ABOUT THE STOUT

Capitol City Brewing Shows a Lovely Dark Side

by JJ Rodriguez and Cary Pollak

Another offering that we tried and enjoyed is the Snow Wit. It is a Belgian style double white ale, made from 50% white wheat malt with an addition of flaked oats to create a soft malt base. Two key ingredients are coriander and orange zest, which are flavors used in classic Belgian wheat beer. This ale is served unfiltered, which accounts for its golden, opaque appearance. If you would like to pour the Snow Wit and/or the Aged Fuel into your mug, hurry on down. Seasonal specialties such as these are always around, but don’t last forever. The Fuel is particularly limited in quantity, and may not last much past the beginning of the new year.

Ben & Jerry's CEO Jostein Solheim (from left), Chairman of the Board Jeff Furman,

Cofounders Jerry Greenfield, and Ben Cohen (at podium).

What do Cherry Garcia and Chunky Monkey have to do with Occupy Wall Street, the entire occupy movement across this country, and the corporate buying of US elected officials?

To explain, the top leadership of Ben & Jerry's Homemade — Cofounders Ben Cohen and Jerry Greenfield, Chairman of the Board Jeff Furman, and Norwegian CEO Jostein Solheim, who hails from the parent company Unilever, a Dutch-British multinational consumer goods company — staged a news conference at the National Press Club in Washington DC December 12. The goal was both to further explain their support of the "Occupy Movement" as well as to announce their new 2012 campaign: "Get the Dough out of Politics."

After scooping ice cream and talking to the demonstrators at Occupy Wall Street, the executives at the $300 million global ice cream company in 34 countries, which is known for social responsibility, issued an early statement of support of the "Occupy Movement," noting that they share many of the same values of fairness, justice, doing what's right, and reducing economic inequality.

"Those are the values we at the company try to live by," explains Furman. He notes that Ben & Jerry's, a wholly-owned Unilever subsidiary, has more autonomy than any other Unilever brand and is the only Unilever brand to have its own board and CEO. When the company was sold, the executives ensured that the social mission of the company would be continued in perpetuity.

"What does this have to do with ice cream?" we are asked. "It has everything to do with it. The 99% are our key customers. They eat a lot more ice cream than the 1%," chuckles CEO Jostein Solheim, a 19 year veteran of Unilever. "We're issuing a call to action for other businesses to support the 99%. Small businesses with 20 or fewer employees are part of the 99%. The world needs dramatic change to address the challenges we are facing. Values-led businesses can play a critical role in driving that positive change."

While cofounders Ben Cohen and Jerry Greenfield talked separately at the news conference, their collective remarks provide a picture of their thinking and of Ben & Jerry's upcoming "Get the Dough out of Politics" campaign:

• Change the corporate role in politics. "We must get money out of politics. Corporations power the political system. They buy elected officials. Some government contracts aren't even bid. Government needs to run without the undue influence of the 1%."
• Who runs the country? "Our country is run by giant corporations. The system is rigged. It's not working. It's advantageous for the wealthy. The income of the top 1% is more than the income of the entire 99%. 1% owns 40% of America."
• The middle-class. "The middle-class drives consumption. We are failing the middle and lower classes that have played by the rules and have nothing to show for it. Corporations have misguided self-interest. Getting more money into the hands of the 99% means they will buy more."
• Some solutions. "Level the playing field. Establish a financial transaction tax. Rescind corporate personhood. It's absurd. Corporations should not be considered people."

The corporate leaders noted that even if the occupy movement is evicted from current spaces, it will continue through social media, smart phones, and other channels which spread news quickly. Ben & Jerry's has 4 million Facebook fans. They noted that typically new movements are ridiculed until time passes and what they seek seems self-evident.

The news conference appropriately ended with servings of a selection of Ben & Jerry's ice cream. I devoured Strawberry Cheesecake, a new flavor for me.

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Jeffrey Buben (Vidalia, Bistro Bis), could have sent any one of several underlings that help to keep his restaurants among the most popular in town. Like many others, however, he appeared personally and put on quite a show. He prepared his version of fried chicken, which gave us a taste of why Vidalia has been so successful in presenting an elegant and upscale version of down home southern cooking. He began by skillfully cutting up a whole chicken into ten serving pieces that each actually provided a generous hunk of meat. One of his "secrets" was to brine the pieces before cooking - not in salt water but in a mixture based on sweet tea. How southern is that! He fried some of the chicken in a covered skillet and some in one that was uncovered, so that we could see the difference in the results. The contrast could be described as extra crispy versus crispy enough but a tad more moist inside.

This was a master instructor at work, as well as a master chef.

Scott Drewno produces dishes worthy of headlines every day at The Source by Wolfgang Puck, which is in the same building as the spectacular Newseum in downtown Washington, D.C. The restaurant aims to serve up a modern interpretation of Asian cuisine, and a number of dishes on the menu were inspired by the chef's two-and-a-half week trip to China and beyond. Chef Drewno's swift hands went to work on preparing potsticker dumplings and lobster spring rolls, labor intensive morsels that sprang up quickly before our eyes. He chose to use fresh ground pork belly in the dumplings because, as is known to chefs around the world, "fat equals flavor." Sesame oil added a distinctive touch to the filling, but we were cautioned to remember that a little goes a long way. Only moderate amounts of filling go into each dumpling so that they can hold their shape, but limiting yourself to eating a moderate number of them might take the discipline of a Zen master.

Peter Smith opened up PS 7's after building up an impressive background that included stints with Jeffrey Buben at both the Occidental and Vidalia restaurants. His presentation of Teason Scallops was fabulous. His work with the chef's knife was so dazzling that I forgot, for a while, what he was making. The "tea" in "Teason" actually refers to an exotic blend of marigolds, apricots, cinnamon and more. He advised us always to buy only dry pack scallops. Otherwise you might wind up with a mollusk that has been bathing in a solution long enough to quadruple in size!

To quote Julia, “Cooking is like love; it should be entered into with abandon, or not at all.” The evening’s festivities featured a tribute performance, a fun and witty lecture by “Julia”, the talented actress Mary Ann Jung, pictured above.

AIFW President Carolyn Margolis, Jeanne Kersting Cohen and Don Cohen

enjoyed cocktails and conversation to start off the evening.

Rapt audience members included Paula Jacobson.

photos by Donna Christenson

La ferme's chef and owner Alain Roussel prepared a simple, elegant menu in the Julia Child style featuring

rainbow trout served with a sauce of white wine, shallots, mushrooms and herbs.

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Celebrity chef Cat Cora credits Julia Child as a mentor, influencing her style and encouraging her to pursue her dreams. Below, Cora delivers the keynote address for the Fancy Food Show held in Washington, DC in July, 2011.

The Summer Fancy Food Show is the largest marketplace for specialty foods and beverages in North America.

photo by JJ Rodriguez

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It is Restaurant Week, Aug 15 – 28 …a great time to try one of Washington, DC’s many great restaurants at a better price than usual.

Over 200 restaurants are participating and offer comparable pricing: $20.11 for a Three Course Lunch and $35.11 for a Three Course Dinner. Check out the restaurant reviews on the DCdigest Food and Wine page below or the website of your favorite place (or a new one you want to try) and make your reservations!

Enjoy!

Donna

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Fancy Food Show Exhibitors Make Record Donation to DC Central Kitchen

Specialty Foods from Around the World Help Feed Thousands

New York, N.Y. (Aug. 2, 2011) – The 57th Summer Fancy Food Show in Washington, D.C., ended on a high note when exhibitors broke records by donating 153,000 pounds of specialty foods and beverages to area residents in need.

The food was the single largest food donation in the history of D.C. Central Kitchen (DCCK), the Fancy Food Show’s local charity of choice. The items included artisanal cheese, olives, snacks, sausages, spices and other specialties from around the world. It was gathered by nearly 200 volunteers, including James Beard Award-winning chef José Andrés, a longtime board member of DCCK.

“This was a wonderful way to end the show,” says Ann Daw, president of the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade, Inc., the show’s owner. “The monumental food donation by our generous exhibitors is one of our proudest traditions.”

The Summer Fancy Food Show is the largest marketplace for specialty foods and beverages in North America. It was held July 10 – 12 at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center.

Exhibitors from 80 countries and regions filled 318,000 square feet of exhibit space with 180,000 specialty food items, from hibiscus jam made in Senegal to hand-crafted salami from Salt Lake City. The show attracted 18,000 buyers from top names in retailing and restaurants worldwide to source new products to present to consumers in the year ahead.

DCCK deployed the donated food to area food banks, and to its own kitchens to use in the 6,000 meals it prepares every day. Some of the more unusual items, such as specialty olive oil and pickled vegetables, are being used in the organization’s Culinary Job Training Program.

“This is an amazing donation,” says Mike Curtin, chief executive of DCCK. “The caliber of food, and the largesse, is helping us further our mission in a significant way.” (Read more about DCCK in this Q&A with CEO Mike Curtin published in the July 2011 Specialty Food Magazine: Doing Right at DC Central Kitchen).

The Summer Fancy Food Show moved to Washington this year from its long-time home at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City due to on-going construction. It will be held again in Washington June 17 – 19, 2012, and is slated to return to New York in 2013. In New York, exhibitors have been donating food to City Harvest, a leading anti-hunger charity, for more than two decades.

The NASFT presents two Fancy Food Shows each year. The Winter Fancy Food Show will be held Jan. 15-17, 2012, at Moscone Center in San Francisco. Last January, exhibitors at the Winter Show donated food to Feed the Hungry.

About the NASFT

The NASFT is a not-for-profit trade association established in 1952 to foster trade, commerce and interest in the specialty food industry. Today there are more than 2,900 members in the U.S. and abroad. The NASFT's website for consumers, foodspring.com, provides an insider's look at specialty foods and the companies, entrepreneurs and artisans behind them. For information on the NASFT, go to http://www.foodspring.com/about/nasft. For information on the NASFT's Fancy Food Shows, go to http://www.foodspring.com/about/fancy-food.

(posted 8/2/11 by Donna Christenson)

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Rabbit opens in Clarendon Thursday, July 28 and

will be giving away free Red Velvet cupcakes from 4pm to 8pm

'Fusion or Confusion?' Chefs Luigi Diotaiuti of DC’s Al Tiramisu and Mike Isabella of Graffiato,

Food Writers Discuss New Century for Italian Cooking in America at Fancy Food Show

By Rozanne Weissman

Washington, DC, July 12, 2011— There were no fisticuffs but there certainly was a difference of opinion at the Fancy Food Show panel, "Fusion or... Confusion? A new Century for Italian Cooking in America," featuring two leading DC chefs and two prominent food writers.

The big question: Does getting creative and innovative with nonna’s traditional Italian recipes mean giving up the authenticity of ingredients in the kitchen?

Moderator Corby Kummer, one of the nation's top food writers, senior editor of The Atlantic, and recipient of three James Beard Journalism Awards, noted there are some who, like respected restaurateur Tony May, who say, "If you were not born and raised in Italy, how dare you!"

"That's not necessarily true anymore, but you do need a good education in Italy to be an Italian chef," countered John Mariani, also one of America's top food writers and author of "How Italian Food Conquered the World. "A chef who has never set foot in Italy is at a disadvantage," he added.

Introduced as a "traditionalist who embraces the new," Italian-born Chef/owner Luigi Diotaiuti of Al Tiramisu, the most authentic Italian restaurant in the nation's capital, emphasized, "Italian food is not just food or a commodity, it's part of a culture. One day I will die," he added, "and I will still not know all of the Italian dishes and recipes I discover by going town by town."

Celebrating the 150th anniversary of Italy and the 15th anniversary of Al Tiramisu, Diotaiuti has been teaching regional Italian cooking classes flavored with culture and history. Thus far, starting from the south to the north, he has covered Sicily (photos of- food and blog), Sardinia, and Puglia. The restaurant imports most of its food from Italy, and Chef Luigi said he can generally get anything he needs within 18-20 hours, including on Sundays.

On the other hand, acclaimed third-generation Italian-American Chef Mike Isabella of Bravo TV's "Top Chef" fame and runner-up on "Top Chef All-Stars" described his just recently opened restaurant Graffiato as "Italian inspired." He illustrated, "I grew up in New Jersey. I keep the products local and add my own touches. There are American influences on the menu like small plates so that two people can dine and try six or seven dishes together. "

Isabella noted he was most inspired by his Italian grandmother, as well as San Francisco Executive Chef Chris Cosentino of Incanto Restaurant and Wine Bar who makes frequent appearances on the Food Network. Corby asked Isabella whether he got all his tattoos after meeting Cosentino and what his grandmother would say if she saw the tattoos. Isabella replied that he had the tattoos before and that "my grandmother would cry if she saw them."

The panel, sponsored by the Italian Ministry of Economic Development and the Italian Trade Commission, was part of the Fancy Food Show at Washington, DC's Convention Center where Italy had the largest pavilion. Italy was among 80 countries at North America's largest specialty food and beverage marketplace which included 2400 exhibitors and 24,000 attendees.

Following the panel, Stacy Jolna spoke about the childhood obesity epidemic. He is the founder of Club EATalian 4Kids, which teaches kids healthy eating and cooking based on the authentic Mediterranean diet from Italy. The new program, with support from the Italian government, began in spring 2011 in Los Angeles.

Similarly, Diotaiuti, in his engaging, entertaining style, has provided a hands-on cooking experience for third to fifth graders from nearby Hyde-Addison Elementary School’s Cooking Club. They cooked gnocchi (recipe and video) alongside Chef Luigi who closed Al Tiramisu for lunch to practice what he preaches: teaching the importance of preparing good food using healthy, fresh ingredients—plus adding movement for health. And then, at the table, they toasted the many chefs with lemonade.

For further information: Rozanne Weissman, RozanneDC@gmail.com. The author of this article writes film screening and food articles for DCdigest and also handles marketing communications for Al Tiramisu.

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901 Restaurant & Bar

CUISINE Contemporary American

AMBIANCE Stylish, sophisticated, modernist design with an inviting level of lighting. Sound level is conversational for groups of 2-4,

but the acoustics may be an issue for larger groups, even in the three party rooms.

RECOMMENDED DISHES Duck quesadilla, Southern style crab cake sandwich, peppercorn lamb chops and the cheesecake, of course.

WINE LIST Varied, with some good choices from $27 to $65 per bottle.

PRICE PER PERSON $30 and under.

HOURS Lunch: daily 11:00am to 5:00pm. Dinner: Monday–Thursday: 5:00pm – 11:00pm, Friday & Saturday: 5:00pm – 12:00am, Sunday: 5:00pm – 10:00pm

LOCATION Penn Quarter area at 901 9^th Street, NW, Washington, DC 20001. Walking distance of the DC Convention Center and 3 blocks from the Gallery Place Metro Station (Green, Yellow & Red Lines).

WEBSITE www.901dc.com

RESERVATIONS Phone 202.524.4433, Email reservations@901dc.com or via OpenTable

http://stickytoffeepuddingcompany.com

Caprotto Casa Madaio and Cypress Grove Chevre Humboldt Fog cheeses & Puremiel Organic Honey

http://www.cheezwhse.com www.cypressgrovechevre.com www.puremiel.com

Ken Seiter, National Association for the Specialty Food Trade Chief Marketing Director, and

DCdigest's Donna Christenson toast the four national winners whose products (pictured below) are from our local area.

food photos by Donna Christenson

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DC digest - Donna's Choice:

Two of my favorite events of the year take place back-to-back this week ...ZooFari on Thursday and Toast of The Town on Friday ...details below. Lions and tigers and bears ...oh, my!

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FRIDAY, MAY 20, WINE ENTHUSIAST’S TOAST OF THE TOWN IN WASHINGTON DC

Donna Christenson invites you to join her with discounted tickets just for www.DCdigest.com readers for a spectacular evening of wines, spirits, beer, music, and the best gourmet food the city has to offer. Hosted by Wine Enthusiast, Toast of the Town D.C. brings more than 500 wines, spirits & beers together with thirty-five signature DC dishes from great restaurants like Bastille, Eatonville, Ping Pong Dim Sum and Taberna del Alabardero, all under one roof. It will be one of the most memorable events of the year celebrating all things food and wine.

This year a portion of the proceeds will be benefiting the National Building Museum's educational program and they'll have representation for Global Giving to allow attendees to give donations on-site for relief efforts in Japan.

Discounted tickets are available for my www.DCdigest.com readers to purchase at www.ToastoftheTown.com The discount code for www.DCdigest.com readers is Early11 which takes $20 off of the VIP ticket and $10 off of the Grand Tasting ticket.

Time: VIP: 6-10 PM; GRAND: 7-10 PM

Cost: VIP $149, GRAND $99 (using discount code Early11 for www.DCdigest.com readers)

Location: National Building Museum, 401 F Street Northwest, Washington D.C., DC 20001, (202) 272-2448

METRO: Gallery Pl-Chinatown Station

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With Cooking Classes Featuring Each Region Starting with Sicily

by Rozanne Weissman

Washington, DC, April 2011—Combining a year-long celebration of the 150th anniversary of Italy as a United Republic and its own 15^th anniversary, Al Tiramisu, the most authentic Italian restaurant in the nation's capital, launches unique cooking classes covering all 20 regions of Italy this month.

“It’s like taking a trip throughout Italy without the cost of going abroad," smiles Al Tiramisu's chef/owner Luigi Diotaiuti who is known for his good cheer and authentic Italian cooking and wine mastery. Attendees of Saturday classes will gain a real "flavor" of each region—its history, culture, inhabitants, and food and wine specialties—while cooking and eating three courses with wine pairings representing the area.

The first cooking class, Saturday, April 16, 11 AM-2 PM, focuses on Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean and the southernmost region of Italy. Succeeding classes will then move from the south up to the north of Italy. Cooking classes are $75 apiece including all food and wine. Reservations: 202-467-4466.

Cheerful and cozy, Al Tiramisu is like taking a trip to Italy without leaving Washington DC. The most distinctive food is imported from Italy—a large selection of whole fish such as Branzini, buffalo mozzarella, sardines, Parma ham, porcini mushrooms, octopus, white and black truffles.

Chef Luigi's secret for remaining trim despite being surrounded by pasta and decadent desserts? Like a poster child for First Lady Michelle Obama's healthy eating and exercise "Let's Move" campaign, Diotaiuti not only jogs regularly but also runs marathons—25 full and half marathons to date. It's his goal to run marathons on every continent. He heads to the outback of Australia this summer and then to Africa.

The joint 150/15 year anniversary celebrations will culminate later in the year with a multicourse 15^th anniversary feast with wine pairings. And, winners of a fall contest drawing will garner places at the feast.

Check the website http://www.altiramisu.com and the Al Tiramisu Facebook page for additional cooking classes as they are added and updates on monthly events.

Al Tiramisu, 2014 P St. NW, Washington, DC 20036 Reservations: 202-467-4466 Valet parking seven nights a week 6-10 PM.

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Good news about Direct Wine Shipment in Maryland

From: Delegate William Frick [mailto:William.Frick@house.state.md.us]

Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2011

Subject: Direct Wine Shipment

Thank you for writing me during the 2011 Session to express your support for legislation to permit direct wine shipment to Maryland oenophiles. I am a strong advocate for the right of adults to purchase wines of their choice and have co-sponsored this legislation each of the last four sessions.

After years of opposition from industry lobbyists, the General Assembly has finally passed legislation to allow shipment of wine directly to consumers and is headed to the Governor's desk for signature. It is not perfect legislation as it is limited to wineries only and leaves out wine clubs and retailers. Nevertheless, the legislation which takes effect July 1st, represents real progress.

Thank you again for your loyal support for this consumer rights issue. Your advocacy over the years is very much appreciated.

Sincere regards,

Bill Frick

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Al Tiramisu Celebrates 15^th Anniversary Year as Most Authentic, Joyful Italian Restaurant

in Nation's Capital — From Complimentary Prosecco to 'Multicourse Feast’

by Rozanne Weissman

Washington, DC, February 2011—Al Tiramisu, the most authentic Italian restaurant in the nation's capital, launches a year-long 15^th anniversary celebration, starting with complimentary Prosecco (sparkling Italian wine) with dinner the week of March 3-10 and culminating later in the year with a multicourse 15^th anniversary feast with wine pairings for winners of a contest drawing.

Reprising its roots, chef/owner Luigi Diotaiuti originally cooked up a celebratory first anniversary dinner from the Italian film "The Big Night” that was so popular he had to add another night.

"Al Tiramisu is my life—it's who I am," smiles Chef Luigi whose delightful Italian accent and charming, playful style sets the restaurant’s tone. It's warm, cozy, and joyful. Witness the Jester logo, Al Tiramisu’s name (translation "cheer me up"), the “buona sera” greeting, and its cheerful, sunny yellow interior. "I want people to have great food AND a great time. When people leave happy, I know that what I'm doing in life touches people," adds Diotaiuti. He has a huge scrapbook of handwritten notes from happy customers.

Al Tiramisu is like taking a trip to Italy without leaving Washington DC. The most distinctive food is imported from Italy—a large selection of whole fish such as Branzini, buffalo mozzarella, sardines, Parma ham, porcini mushrooms, octopus, white and black truffles. Pasta is made on site. "Ragu is made as we did back home— we grind fine first cut meat. We focus on quality, not quantity," he emphasizes, "which we can do in a small space."

Surrounded by pasta and decadent desserts daily, how does Diotaiuti remain slim? Like a poster child for First Lady Michelle Obama's healthy eating and exercise "Let's Move" campaign, Diotaiuti not only jogs regularly but also runs marathons—10 full marathons and 14 half marathons to date. As part of his goal to run marathons on every continent, he ran in China, is heading to the outback of Australia this summer, and then Africa.

Diotaiuti also keeps growing by training in topnotch kitchens in Italy and Paris and perfecting family recipes. Chef Luigi is also a certified Sommelier from the Association of Italian Sommeliers. The restaurant offers 14 different Italian wines by the glass.

Celebrities and well-knowns have dined at Al Tiramisu. "George Clooney—who is fun and real and also brought mom and dad—has probably come about 20 times," says the chef/owner. Others include Harrison Ford, Placido Domingo, Michael Douglas and Catherine Zita Jones, Demi Moore, Bill Cosby, Hillary Clinton, Rahm Emanuel, Steve Case, Wolf Blitzer, and Pelé. Magic Johnson and David Letterman also ordered carry out.

While many other restaurants unfortunately shuttered, Al Tiramisu has weathered tough challenges—the decline of business and tourist travel following 9/11, a lengthy economic downturn, plus two years of disruptive P Street construction in front of the restaurant. "Loyal customers simply came more often and told friends to ensure the restaurant's survival. We owe our success to our customers," says Diotaiuti.

Expect to see combined celebrations of the 15th anniversary and the 150th anniversary of the birth of Italy as a United Republic. "15/150—there's just a 'zero' difference between us," chuckles Diotaiuti. Check the website http://www.altiramisu.com and Facebook for updates on monthly events.

Al Tiramisu, 2014 P St. NW, Washington, DC 20036. Reservations: 202-467-4466. Valet parking seven nights a week 6-10 PM.

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RESTAURANTS THAT STILL DESERVE RAVES

By Cary Pollak

A salute to eateries that have outlasted the competition

Washington has become a city of fabulous restaurants. Restaurant Association President Lynne Breaux notes “the national and international coverage we’ve been getting, shows that metropolitan DC restaurants really rock!” Washington’s emergence as a culinary contender is not due to dazzling newcomers alone. While French aristocrats like Rive Gauche and San Souci have disappeared, some of their contemporaries continue to flourish. Three such survivors have contrasting formulas for success.

The popular Old Ebbitt Grill (657 15^th St., N.W., 202-347-4800) was so named in 1856. The original was eventually demolished, but Clyde’s Restaurant Group recreated it over two decades ago. The grand interior evokes the spirit of a Victorian saloon. Although well known for décor and drinks, serious commitment to food quality also contributes to its lasting success. The oyster bar is the best in town. These shellfish are tested extensively, and their elegant presentation in mixed varieties is a tasty tutorial. Burgers are ground fresh daily, and excellent parmesan crusted trout always features local fish.

The more upscale Occidental (1475 Pa. Ave., N.W., 202-783-1475) opened in 1906 and for 65 years was the restaurant “Where Statesmen Dine.” It, too, was resurrected 20 years ago, by owners who crafted a classical ambiance. Photos of famous diners, like Buffalo Bill and Rockefeller, cover the walls. Chef Rodney Scruggs, who recently returned after a long absence, is doing excellent work. Crusty salt cod croquettes are delightful, and the veal ossobuco is picture perfect, until the tender meat falls apart when nudged by cutlery. This fall, Occidental will celebrate its 100^th anniversary, and everyone is invited.

La Chaumiere ( 2813 M St., N.W., 202-338-1784) has operated in Georgetown for 30 years, an extraordinary feat, especially in this competitive neighborhood. Affable owner Gerard Pain designed both the rustic décor and the menu of French comfort foods. Regulars come so often that they know each other almost as well as Monsieur Pain. Signature dishes are boudin blanc (mild white sausage), and quenelles (pike dumplings). They come as appetizers or entrees, and one is tempted to order them in both sizes at once. Perfectly formed dessert soufflés provide an ideal end to a lovely meal.

Washington’s hot new restaurants deservedly get the buzz, but the great old-timers still get the business.

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HOLIDAY HIGHS AT HISTORIC HOTELS

By Cary Pollak

Is It Time for an Oil Change in the Kitchen?

By HAROLD McGEE

WHAT’S the best oil for everyday frying? Some markets where I shop offer more than a dozen oils, from argan and avocado to tea seed and walnut. I’d long figured that the choice is a matter of taste and price. I usually use canola oil because it’s neutral in flavor, a good source of omega-3s and inexpensive. Like soy oil, it costs about a dime a tablespoon, whereas extra-virgin olive oils can run well over a dollar.

Partisans of the olive maintain that a high-quality extra-virgin oil brings its special flavor and health benefits to foods cooked in it. More recipes now suggest it for frying and other high-heat techniques, not just for last-minute drizzling. But does it make enough difference that it’s worth a tenfold premium in price?

I investigated the flavor question by heating 15 oils — 4 olive and 11 seed oils — with nothing else in the pan, so I could taste what heat alone does to them. And I served some of them to trained oil judges.

We were surprised at how thoroughly heat obliterated the flavors in cooking oil until they all tasted more or less the same. Even prize-winning, and costly, extra-virgin olive oils lost much of what makes them special, though they retain their apparently healthful pungency. To get food with the green and fruity flavor of good olive oil, it seems more economical and effective to fry with an inexpensive refined oil and drizzle on a little fresh olive oil after cooking.

Many oils have little or no flavor to begin with, as they’ve been refined to remove almost everything except the oil molecules. This is true of most oils extracted from seeds, including canola and soy. Fresh out of the bottle, the nine refined seed oils I tested were almost odorless. Some seed oils, including peanut and sesame, are also sold in unrefined or partly refined form. These are usually darker and can carry the flavor of their sources. They’re also more sensitive to heat than refined oils. They start breaking down, developing unpleasant flavors and giving off smoke at lower temperatures. Heated in a frying pan, the two unrefined seed oils I tested began to smoke between 375 and 390 degrees, at the upper end of the frying range. The refined oils didn’t start smoking until 475 degrees or higher.

When heated to a moderate frying temperature of 350 degrees, only the unrefined sesame oil had a distinctive flavor. The other 10 seed oils tasted about the same, slightly nutty and, well, fried.

Unlike seed oils, olive oils are pressed from fresh fruits, so their flavors can vary tremendously. Of the four tested, one was an inexpensive “light” olive oil, made primarily of neutral refined oil, with very little aroma.

The other three were labeled “extra virgin,” a standard that in theory signifies an unrefined oil of good quality but in practice doesn’t signify much at all. The first two were a fruity Spanish oil and a spicy, pungent one from California. Both were international medal winners and priced accordingly, at a dollar or more a tablespoon. The third was a suspiciously inexpensive bottle from an upscale supermarket, a blend from several Mediterranean countries. It smelled stale and had a strong odor of fermented olives. These qualities should have disqualified it from extra virgin status because they indicate that the oil was made from damaged fruit.

But oil appeal is on the palate of the taster. According to a forthcoming study from researchers at the University of California, Davis, many California consumers actually like and expect these off flavors in olive oils, probably because they’re used to them and have had little or no experience of fresh, well-made oils.

The refined olive oil and two of three extra-virgin olive oils I tested began to smoke at a respectable 450 degrees. The inexpensive extra-virgin oil started to smell of rubber and plastic almost as soon as it became warm, and fumed at 350 degrees.

After I’d heated them, none of the olive oils had much olive flavor left. In fact, they didn’t taste much different from the seed oils.

To get a set of more expert second opinions, I took the olive oils to a meeting of the University of California’s olive oil research group. This panel of trained tasters evaluates oils from all over the world to provide guidance to California’s young olive-oil industry.

In a blind tasting of the four unheated olive oils, the six tasters easily distinguished the medal winners from the cheaper oils and found many interesting aroma notes in them, from tea and mint to green banana, stone fruit and cinnamon.

For the second blind tasting, I heated each oil to 350 degrees for five minutes. I also heated a sample of the Spanish oil more gently, to 300 degrees, to see whether it might retain more olive flavor.

The panelists said nothing as they swirled and sniffed the heated oils in their small tasting glasses, tinted blue to eliminate any consideration of color, then sipped, slurped and spat. The first spoken comment, immediately seconded by most of the panel members, was, “These oils all taste like popcorn.” In fact the panel ranked the heated light oil higher than the heated pricey California extra-virgin oil, whose pungency was no longer balanced by a spicy aroma and had become overbearing.

Even the defective supermarket oil had become much less offensive. This surprise led one panelist to recall that heating is part of the refining process that manufacturers use to deodorize raw oils. Cooking clearly also drives aromas out of the oil and into the air. That helps explain the harsh smell that filled our kitchen decades ago whenever my mother started to make spaghetti sauce. I hated that aroma, which came from the poor oil she must have used, but I loved her spaghetti sauce.

While it’s understandable that many people have learned to enjoy off flavors in oils, there’s a good reason to recognize staleness and rancidity for what they are and avoid them.

All cooking oils are fragile. Fresh oil begins to deteriorate as soon as it’s exposed to light, heat, oxygen or moisture, all of which can break intact oil molecules into fragments. One set of fragments is responsible for the hints of cardboard, paint and fish that we smell in stale, rancid oil.

It turns out that stale aromas, pleasant fried aromas and unpleasant scorched aromas all come from oil fragments called aldehydes that are more or less toxic to our cells, whether we eat them or inhale them during cooking. Frequent exposure to frying fumes has been found to damage the airways of both restaurant and home cooks. Fresh oils, and in particular fresh olive oils, generate the fewest toxic aldehydes.

So the choice of everyday frying oil should indeed be a matter of taste. Choose a cheap or expensive oil as you like. Fans of extra-virgin olive oil willingly pay more for its provenance and polyphenols as much as its aroma. But learn to taste the difference between good fresh oils and stale or funky ones. Buy small containers that you’ll use up in a few weeks, keep them dark and cool, and taste before you fry.

By HAROLD McGEE

D.C.'s hottest new restaurant and rum bar Cuba Libre's owner and president of GuestCounts Hospitality Barry Gutin, chef John Damilio, marketing director Emily Jarmuth and general manager Amnon Pick.

Cuba Libre offers a taste of Cuba most of us would otherwise never experience. The newly-opened restaurant and bar boasts the best ever Mojitos ... and the secret is freshly-pressed sugar cane juice made on-site each day.

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Restaurant Reviews

CAFE ASIA:

When it comes to choosing offerings from the wide array of asian cuisines, the menu at the downtown Cafe Asia gives you more ways to go than a Chinese checkers board. Never mind that the modern setting is uninspired, and in need of some fresh paint. Here, food is emperor, and will command your attention. Start with the sushi list. One of its stars is the "spider roll," featuring crispy deep fried soft shell crab, peeking out of a cone shaped seaweed wrapper. Indonesia is honored with a choice of meaty satays, accompanied by a good traditional peanut sauce, and marinated chunks of carrots, cucumbers and (watch out now) fiery jalapenos. "Ikan pepes" is a delightful tumeric infused trout filet, that waits inside of a banana leaf. Once exposed, the entree is heralded by an intoxicating cloud of basil and lemon grass, two hallmarks of southeast asian cooking. "Gway tio" is a combination of rice noodles, Chinese roast pork, and mussels. One taste of its complex brown sauce makes clear that the "sweet soy sauce" mentioned on the menu is not the only potion in the pot. The chef confirms that both mushroom soy and oyster sauce have provided a savory counter point. Long may yin and yang live in harmony! The fried banana drenched in honey, is a clumsy dessert. Try ending the meal instead, with the refreshing green tea ice cream. --Cary Pollak

A.V.:

Long time Washingtonians know two things about A.V. Ristorante Italiano:

it has always been the subject of highly mixed reviews, and it has been a successful family run restaurant for decades. The theme of contrasting impressions is amplified on warm nights when dinner is served both in the dark, traditional dining room, and on the patio in this changing neighborhood near the posh convention center. You would do well to start with the antipasto, the quality of which is unambiguous. Lean and supple slices of prosciutto are draped over sections of melon. Paper thin rounds of salami and wedges of robust imported provolone help to complete the array of shapes and colors. Each leaf of the whole stuffed artichoke appetizer carries a bread crumb and olive stuffing - great fun for those who like to play with their food. Classic saltimbocca appears as pallid puddles of melted mozarella, served ungarnished on a plain white plate. Every bite, however, explodes like a culinary paint ball, as veal, anchovies, prosciutto and cheese vie for attention. By way of visual contrast, the platter of seafood over linguini is an impressive mound of squid and shellfish, featuring plump mussels and two shrimp as large as any that have ever posed atop an entree. Cannoli, spumoni and other sweets are as one would expect at a good southern Italian restaurant. Light and moist tiramisu is the only dessert made on the premises, however, and it shouldn't be missed. --Cary Pollak

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Donna's Favorite Holiday Punch

It can be difficult to keep a hot punch at the right temperature for drinking. Either it is too hot, or it cools off very quickly in your cup, and then is not so appealing. This one is served at room temperature.

one bottle of zinfandel (or other red wine ...cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, merlot)

one bottle of ruby port

one cup of Grand Marnier (or other orange liquor)

Mix in punch bowl or large pitcher. Makes approx. 20 servings Be careful ...it's so delicious but deceptively potent!

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